Tag: camden

  • Pubs, Power Cuts, And How The Landmark Made Me Realise I Wasn’t Young Anymore 

    Pubs, Power Cuts, And How The Landmark Made Me Realise I Wasn’t Young Anymore 

    Lately, on foot of my mentioning The Landmark Pub to a tradesman, I’ve been pondering the intangible phenomenon that marches us all slowly toward the grave – that is to say, I’ve been thinking about ageing. Specifically, I’ve been wondering about our perception of ageing and the way it can feel relatively accelerated at different parts of one’s life.  
     
    This has, of course, invited more questions that I find myself plagued with at the most inopportune moments. Questions that wonder what age it is that we feel like we’re ageing the fastest? Or what milestones are those specifically linked with the realisation of our agedness? And whether these things are specific to a generation, or even an individual.

    And once you get on to questions like those, you’re invariably headed down a single path toward the biggest questions of all – the ones that consider exactly what it is that the purpose of our existence as a universe really is – the ones that stop you in your tracks and leave you, mouth agape, in the household cleaning aisle of Dunnes – with the aulones gawking up at you, presuming that you’re trying to figure out the difference between bio and non-bio.  

    This bout of pound shop existentialism is brought to you today by my realisation that I’ve become everything I hated as a young, fresh-faced apprentice. I’ve become one of those lads who cajoles young tradespersons into unwanted conversations.  

    I had only gone in to offer the fella a cup of tea, but before I knew it, the sentences had started to form in my mouth and were projected forward into his disinterested face. Sentences like these: 

    • It was called the DIT when I was there, but they’ve changed it to something else since then. 
    • They actually demolished that building, I’m not sure where the Sparks do their tech now – probably online.  
    • It’s a shame really, there used to be some great craic in the pub up the road from it – Karma Stone it was called. It’s something different now.  

    When I finally did leave the man to his work, and before I made my realisation about how old I’d become, I had cause to remember back to that pub, which, as correctly stated, is something different now – namely The Landmark.  

    Placed on the corner of Kevin and Wexford Street, The Landmark is a medium-sized pub. It is comprised of a single room – that is to say, it’s not subdivided into lounge/bar, but does offer plenty of nooks within that one room, which negate this writer’s temptation to describe it as open plan. The aesthetics of the pub are similar to its nearby competitor – Devitt’s, it having a nuevo-traditional-pub style of fit-out. Dark wooden tones, ceilings with embossed wallpaper and an array of trinkets and bric-a-brac scattered throughout. Unlike Devitt’s, though, we’ve found this pub to belie its name – Landmark it is not. To us, it just seems to have not quite found its niche – that is to say that it doesn’t and hasn’t stood out to us in a very, very saturated pub market along that multi-named, boozy thoroughfare stretching from Dame Street to The Grand Canal.  

    To say it hasn’t found its niche may be harsh, on our part. Food seemed a fairly integral part of the pub’s offering, and longtime readers will know this to be something that can detract from our enjoyment of a pub. With regard to the pint, it left the wallet €6.90 lighter in early 2025 and was plenty drinkable.  

    I suppose it’s perhaps too difficult to be able to unbiasedly look at a pub that’s tied up with a such a pivotal part of my youth – where I, along with scores of other young trainee electricians – our pockets all lined with the last feeble roars of The Celtic Tiger – would pour in from the DIT’s Kevin Street Campus, unaware of the financial shitstorm that would send us abroad or to the dole queue in a matter of months. Where, at 2pm on a Tuesday afternoon following a term’s last exam, a power cut occurred and someone shouted into the darkness – “Is there a Sparks in the gaff?” to the drunken excitement of a hundred drunken electricians who’d been there since 11. 

    So, to try and answer one of the questions I started this piece with: I think it’s when a critical mass of premises and institutions (figurative and literal) change their names, appearances and/or purposes that you start to feel you’re ageing quicker than others are. And The Landmark, nee Karma Ston,e is just another one of those for me.  

    Epilogue: But then you go and talk to someone in their nineties who talks about WW2 like it was a few months ago, and you feel like a 14-year-old again. Life is mad. None of us are as old as we think; get out there and have the craic.  

  • The Lucky Duck

    The Lucky Duck

    Once upon a springtime’s evening, myself, Pintman №2 and a handful of other drinkers had found ourselves wandering merry through the streets of the capital. We were undertaking that grandest of Irish Sunday traditions – bouncing from pub to pub in the late spring sunshine, attempting to assuage that impending doom of Monday morning with craic and pints.

    We had started in The Liberties and had found ourselves up that long and boozy boulevard which contains streets Wexford, Camden, George’s and Aungier. Our intention was to make slow headway back to The Northside when we came to The Lucky Duck – one of Dublin’s newest pubs at the time. It looked decent, and in a time when we hadn’t any notion of who PressUp were – it offered no preconceptions, either. So, we decided to drop in and check it out.

    The Lucky Duck

    Standing at the threshold of the pub, we were met with the one thing which singled it out from others – the addition of a bouncer on the door. A certain anomaly for a normal pub of a Sunday evening. Having been scrutinized by our craictoseintolerant friend, we just about made it into the pub and happily found ourselves, a pint or two later, acquainted with two middle-aged local women who took it upon themselves to enthral us – their willing audience, with tales of the pub in its former guise – The Aungier House, or The Danger House as it was known to them. We asked them whether that name was warranted back then, to which they replied – sometimes.


    As mentioned prior, the pub is operated by the much-maligned PressUp group and was opened in 2018, ending a two-decade-old spell of dereliction. The opening of the pub also happened to render an algorithmically generated route, which solved Leopold Bloom’s much-quoted puzzle (about crossing Dublin without passing a pub) null and void. Take that, computer nerds!


    The interior of the pub is newly kitted in a similar Victorian style to some of its nearest competitors. It merges newly purpose-built elements alongside apparent repurposed ones and contains a medium-sized snug at its Aungier Street side. A copper-topped bar runs most of the length of the space, completing the look. It’s a very good-looking bar, certainly the most attractive in the Pressup portfolio, in our opinion.


    Another feature of the pub which you might notice as you walk down Upper Digges St. is the collection of Delft Houses, which adorn shelves in the window. Cian, over on EveryPubInDublin, has identified these as souvenirs which were distributed by Dutch airline KLM. These are noteworthy, as they refer to the intended name of the pub – The Dutch Billy.


    We’re not entirely sure why the pub is called The Lucky Duck. We toyed with the theory that it was probably a name that was chosen in keeping with the avian pond-dweller theme established by the nearby (and excellent) Swan pub. Or possibly that it could be connected to other Dublin hostelries containing the word Duck in their title – there being two: The Dalkey Duck and The Wild Duck. Neither of these theories would prove conclusive.


    What we do know is that the pub was to be called The Dutch Billy under the assumption that the structure containing the pub was an original Dutch Billy (A Dutch Billy is a specific architectural style of house which was built in Ireland during the 17th and 18th centuries and was named after King William of Orange). Plans for this name were so far advanced that a web domain was registered and a sign painted. But given that the above assumption proved to be incorrect, the name was changed late in the game.


    The pint, on this maiden occasion, was noted as being acceptable, though not exceptional. Price was not recorded at this time, though there was an outburst worthy of a warning from the bouncer when the price of the toasty was revealed to us. This price, while remembered as being somewhat outrageous at the time, was also not recorded. In the latter half of 2021, the Guinness is now recorded as having been well presented but leaving something to be desired and was priced at €5.80 per-pour – a far cry from the £1.70 previously charged in The Aungier House, as reported in The Evening Herald in 1995 which, further on in the edition, reports the price to be one of the lowest, if not the lowest, in the city.

    aungier


    I think we’d be happy to label this as our favourite of the pubs in PressUp’s arsenal. It would be easy to be cynical about The Lucky Duck, especially given its proximity to The Swan – one of the city’s most authentic versions of the sort of pub that The Lucky Duck seeks to emulate. But why would you want to be cynical – they’ve, admittedly, done a fantastic job with the space. They’ve replaced a dismal, derelict shell with a beautiful pub. And yes, there is a bigger chat to be had around PressUp’s furthering monopolisation of the sector, but for now, how can any of us, especially in the context of contemporary dereliction discourse, argue with something as nice as The Lucky Duck?

  • Jimmy Rabbitte’s: Camden St.

    Jimmy Rabbitte’s: Camden St.

    Lately, I’ve been finding myself lying awake at night pondering a big question. This question isn’t of an existential variety, no, no. I’m fine with reflecting on the afterlife and the greater universe for the moment, the one question that’s currently interrupting my sleeping pattern is that which queries whether Jimmy Rabbitte’s, the pub on Camden Street, was named after Jimmy Senior, Jimmy Junior, or both. There’s also the frightening prospect that the pub might have been named after someone other than one of the two characters in Roddy Doyle’s Barrytown trilogy.

    Jimmy Rabbitte’s: Camden St.

    It might be reasonable to assume that Jimmy Junior is the man in question here, given that his band – The Commitments do in fact rehearse in the space sat above the pub during the movie adaptation of the book which bears the band’s name. But it can’t be that simple, really. I mean, who wouldn’t want to name a pub after Jimmy Senior? Colm Meaney’s portrayal of the foul-mouthed, pint-drinking, loveable family man is one that is beloved by the entire population of this country. Ah, alas – maybe some questions are just too big for this life.

    A relatively new pub, Jimmy Rabbitte’s is an establishment which Pintman №2 and I have darkened the door of no more than three times and no less than two. Upon our first attendance within the boozer, we found it sparsely populated with the exception of a table with what sounded to us to be an English lad. This particular lad, who wasn’t the worst looking chap to be fair to him, was a bit of a hit with the ladies who, at the time, one and all, seemed to be making it their business to approach his table for a chat. Feeling a pinch of inadequacy from the whole situation, Pintman №2 and I reminded ourselves of our inner beauty and made for a table with two pints of plain.

    Pint-wise, we recall the standard as being nothing too above average but of an acceptable level all the same. The last note of price we took put the pint of plain at an even fiver. But we’d expect that to have risen by now, given the time elapsed since then. Aside from stout, the range of gargle was pretty plentiful and seemed to have something to appeal to a wide range of the drinking public, particularly those who fancy a gin from time to time.

    The appearance of the pub is what we might describe as modern-retro. It might seem hypocritical of us to say that we liked the place, given our thoughts on its nearby neighbour, Devitt’s. But as the installation of this boozer did not require the tearing out of an old gem, we’re happy enough to figure that this is one of the few times that we’re not contradicting ourselves.

    With its solid wooden flooring underfoot, wood panelling on the walls and exposed wooden rafters overhead, the pub keeps a certain rustic charm. For decoration, there is any number of quirky surreal scenes framed upon the wall space, while enough postcards to stock a souvenir shop sit affixed to the rafters. Snug lovers can rejoice in the knowledge that this pub boasts one of the capital’s newest snugs. The modest-sized compartment sits toward the front of the pub. Not stopping there with older conveniences, the underside of the bar offers the option of hooks for jackets and bags. Interestingly, too, beneath the bar sits a definite sign of the times in the form of USB ports. The modern hook, perhaps?

    I suppose we could put a bit more effort in and actually figure out specifically who this boozer is really named after. But maybe the mystery is half the craic. Oh, and we eventually found out who that English fella was when the women in our lives put two and two together. They wasted no time in berating us, angrily asking “How on earth” we didn’t recognise Jude Law “sitting right in front of yis!!??” – a question we each could only possibly answer one way…

    … I’m fucked if I know, Terry!

  • J O’Connell’s: South Richmond St.

    J O’Connell’s: South Richmond St.

    Sitting in the middle of the Caribbean Sea, there lies a small city on the northern coast of Panama with a population of five thousand people. This city boasts a tropical maritime climate, and a quick search online shows me that it’s currently bathing in sunshine, which has brought a temperature in the region of the high twenties. This is in stark contrast to the current Irish weather conditions, which have, in the last few days, begun to exude that icy November chill that has you finally digging out your biggest coat from the back of the wardrobe. Thankfully, I’m sheltered from said iciness, but less thankfully is the fact that I’m at work – in a drab office block, and aside from writing this, I’m also neglecting my professional duties by perusing a collection of images of this little city mentioned above. It’s a picturesque place – dense forest-like growth buffers between land and sky on all inland horizons, while horizons off into the Caribbean look just as exotic as you might expect The Caribbean would.

    J O’Connell’s: South Richmond St.

    I’m sure some of you might be starting to wonder where I’m going with this. Well, the reason as to why I’m harping on about such a far-flung place is, namely, down to the fact that in the last few weeks, we happened to have a pint in an area of Dublin which not only is a namesake of this Caribbean town but happens to have actually been named after it. The area we refer to is Portobello.

    So as it would turn out, this fair little canal-side district was so named, not after a type of mushroom, as yours truly had thought, but instead from the occasion of some aul colonial English prick getting one over on some aul colonial Spanish bollox. This delightful little bloodbath, which happened in 1739, is now referred to as The War of Jenkins’ Ear. But enough about that.

    J O’Connell’s, from what we can tell, is an old boozer. Our limited research skills haven’t managed to date it, but a record in ‘Thom’s Almanac and Official Directory for the Year 1862’ lists a Mr Walter Furlong – a grocer and spirit dealer, as its occupant. A further record from an electoral register dated between 1908 and 1915 describes the building as being a ‘Licensed House’. What’s nice about this pub, though, is the fact that none of that is rammed down your throat. Nowadays, we live in such a marketing-centric time, and it’s of particular annoyance to us when a pub which is barely opened a wet day bombards its patrons and potential patrons with a PR-spun, contrived ‘back-story’, which takes more than enough of its fair share of artistic license when deciding on how liberal to be with the truth. In J O’Connell’s, this is no concern.

    What you do get here is an authentic Dublin boozer. The colour scheme is one that I can’t come to describe without mention of the word – festive. Glossy reds and greens cast a warming glow on the pub, which is of a medium size overall. High seating is available at the bar only, and a traditional combination of pub couches and low stools make up the rest. The walls display a good mix of the usual fare – horses, GAA, local history and some nice portraits of Brendan Behan & Co. Mix nicely along with the whiskey and beer trinkets about the place. Pintman Nº2 was taken with the arrangement of the shelving behind the bar, and I noticed the barrel end of a few casks, which sat into the bar, as they would have in the era before mainstream bottling. I wondered if they were an original feature at the time. I’m less uncertain now, having discovered the age of the place.

    The vibe when we visited was quite a chilled one – a mix of young and old locals sat ensconced in various corners, engrossed in quiet conversation. The radio was kept low enough and was playing Billie Holiday, or Billy Holiday-esque sort of tunes – we all agreed it was an unusual set of tunes in the context of Dublin pubs en masse, but we too agreed that they suited the mood perfectly. The staff were excellent, the barman was on the ball with service and barely allowed us to leave our seats to obtain a jar. The pint was a bargain at €4.80 and was as satisfying on the palate as it was on the pocket.

    J O’Connell’s is one of the true undiscovered jewels in Dublin’s landscape of pubs. And yes, the Panama Canal may be more impressive than The Grand, and there’s little doubt that the weather in the Caribbean is nicer than ours. But who wants to be drinking rum in a wicker hut with sand down your trousers when you could instead be cuddled into a couch with a pint of plain in Portobello? I know which one I fancy more.

  • Cassidy’s: Camden St.

    Cassidy’s: Camden St.

    What do Robbie Keane, Bill Clinton and Daniel O Donnell have in common? Now there’s a question you never thought you’d ever hear, and a question we never thought we’d ever ask. It’s not that Bill had a sweet first touch when he played five-a-side on the lawn of 1600 Pennsylvania Ave – no, no. And we’re pretty certain that you won’t find Keano in any brass section warming up to the dulcet tones of Baker St. Nor will you find Bill Clinton going out of his way to attract older wome….. actually, never mind.

    Cassidy’s: Camden St.

    Well, if any of you out there thought that Cassidy’s of Camden Street was the particular commonality between the three distinguished figures aforementioned, you would be right because this pub happens to be one that at one time or another purveyed a pint to each of the three lads.

    The perfect example of a deceivingly large boozer, this one has to be up there with one of the longest pubs in the city. The pub is popular with Donegal natives, and we have it on good authority that it’s managed by wee Daniel’s brother, too. Exuding a comfortable vibe that must be difficult to maintain in such an expansive space, Cassidy’s is a Victorian pub which is characterised by all the usual features one would expect of a place described as such. Dark wood and brass fittings serve as a welcome aesthetic in the midst of a part of town that seems to become trendier by the day.

    The pint, we usually find as being up to scratch here, and we’ve certainly no recollections of a bad one ever being put in front of us on any visit. Upon our last visit, we were charged an even fiver for the dark and creamy pleasure, but use that as a rough guide only – we’re fast approaching the one-year anniversary of that visit at this rate.

    Regrettably, we haven’t spent half as much time as we’d have liked to in this pub over the years. We’ll definitely be making sure to remedy that in the near future.

  • J.J. Smyth’s: Aungier St.

    J.J. Smyth’s: Aungier St.

    There’s an old proverb that I’ve adopted into my lexicon over the years, which states that what is seldom is wonderful. Granted that this is an adage that I doubt too many persons involved in the task of tracking asteroids would be partial to, it’s one that I find can ring true from time to time, one such time happened a few weeks ago.

    J.J. Smyth’s: Aungier St.

    It was late enough of a Saturday evening when a text came through from Pintman Nº2; yours truly was hauled up on the wagon recovering from the physical and financial perils of a recent jaunt around Toronto, where he’d tried to do a Behan and “Drink Canada Dry”. The text message, as it would transpire, was to inform me that Pintman Nº3 was home for the grand duration of one and a half days and that a hurriedly planned session had entered the tendering stage. Remembering the aforementioned wonder of infrequency, I decided I’d borrow a few quid and postpone my recovery for another weekend.

    The next afternoon, the full DublinByPub contingent set out on a crawl around a few beloved boozers in town. After hitting two or three pubs, we decided to make our way to The Long Hall – as we did so, Pintman Nº2 and I brought Pintman Nº3 up to speed on what he’d been missing – telling him that one headline that he had missed out on was that about The Chancery Inn having been put up for sale for €1.7M. As I asked the two lads whether they reckoned we should pool our resources and put in a bid, Pintman Nº3 was quick to put any potential venture to bed by remarking how the proposition had been made by someone who “had to borrow fifty quid to come out for a few pints today”. This interaction, as luck would have it, is a fine segue into what we have to say about what would befall us as we came to the next junction.

    Now, it’s fair to say that we pick up a good amount of information as we journey around the boozers of the city – anecdotes and facts relating to music, history, architecture, and politics are all pretty commonplace. But one thing we don’t tend to gather on our wanderings, and this may be solely down to our poor acumen in matters related to finance or commerce, is worthwhile business advice – we simply don’t encounter it. But on this particular afternoon, as we strode toward JJ Smyth’s and the crowd of snap-happy passers-by gathered outside, we happened to come up with DublinByPub’s first (potentially) worthy piece of business advice, and it can be surmised in one single word – Murals!

    As can be seen in the image attached, a bare gable end is nothing if not a good spot to get creative. JJ’s were obviously using their heads when they allowed the astoundingly talented Subset Dublin to ‘Paint It Black’ (sorry) and throw up a portrait of everyone’s favourite pensioners – The Rolling Stones. There have been two other phenomena over the last year which have had a similar buzz about them, whereby they became plastered all over social media – namely, the awesome Bordalo II work on the side of The Workshop and Irishtown Brewing’s fantastic mural, which covered The Hairy Lemon’s façade for a while last year. So if you’re looking to get your boozer onto the screens of people’s phones and you have a spare bare wall, you know what you need to do.

    I suppose we’d better get on to saying something about JJs at this stage. This boozer wasn’t actually on our itinerary on this particular afternoon, but we can’t resist a cheeky detour now and again, so in we went. The pub, which is well known for the Jazz Club which was housed in its upstairs bar up until recently, wasn’t all that busy when we arrived during the middle of the afternoon. There was one or two locals at the bar, one of whom looked like he was ‘waiting on a friend’ (sorry) – the radio was playing a playlist of Led Zeppelin tunes, which we all agreed was in keeping with the new rock-and-roll aesthetic set by the mural. We were greeted gregariously by a woman behind the bar who was as friendly as she was energetic – she promptly sorted us out with a few pints as we settled in before proudly telling us of her love for her job and how she was ‘born to be behind that bar’. Enamoured by her passion, we enquired as to how long she’d been in JJs – ‘about two weeks,’ said she

    Appearance-wise, the pub is pretty traditional, which was a welcome sight to us – scarlet-coloured walls and carpet couple well with the couch seating, which is a sort of faded shade of pine, this runs the full length of the left side of the bar with several octagonal tables sitting at intervals along the run. Pintman Nº3 was quick to prove that he hadn’t lost his keen eye over on the continent by quickly noticing the old disused call bells which sat recessed into the wall behind the couches – a nice touch, we all agreed. The bar itself sat about two-thirds of the way toward the end of the pub and was of a medium size and constructed with dark wood.

    The pint came in at €5.20 and received a chorus of approval from all around the table as they finished a first sup in unison. Pintman Nº3 enjoyed his with a toastie, which he critiqued by exclaiming, “Grogan’s is safe anyway”. When we finished up, the woman behind the bar turned on a bit of a persuasive charm and tempted us to have one for the road, and although she nearly swayed us, we ultimately opted to continue on crawling having given her our assurance that we’d be back another day, a statement we definitely meant.

  • Devitt’s: Camden St.

    Devitt’s: Camden St.

    I wonder if you’ve ever found yourself, at some stage in your life, completely contradicting values that you hold dear for no other good reason than gut reaction? This happened to us a number of weeks ago when we wandered into the newly refurbished and newly managed Devitt’s of Camden St, which has instilled in us a sense of ambivalence that no other pub ever has.

    Devitt’s: Camden St.

    Devitt’s, as we knew it, was a family-run GAA pub which offered the normality of a local atmosphere amidst the madness of an ever-trendier Camden St. Aesthetically traditional, it was just another decent Dublin boozer – wooden flooring and carpet sectionalised areas for high and low seating while dividers aplenty broke up the bar and created nooks and crannies. It was a pub that was ageing nicely and the pick of Camden St. in our humble opinion.

    During 2017, we heard through various channels that the pub had been sold to a group and that the new owners were quick to put their money where their mouth is, deciding to finance a full refurbishment – news which we had received with much trepidation. Now this is where the contradictions start, so please bear with us. The new fit-out is fine – The exterior is immaculate; it would be easily argued that the façade of Devitt’s is the now finest pub frontage from The Grand Canal to Dame St. The interior is, for all intents and purposes, also fine– dark wood, wooden floor, drinking paraphernalia along the walls, it’s everything we look for and if it were a brand new pub that had been installed into a bare shell it would be fine. But it just didn’t sit right with us.

    We’ve been pondering this for the last few weeks, and our reasoning for not taking to this particular renovation is loosely described in the following sentiment. Essentially, Devitt’s new proprietors have thrown the baby out with the bathwater; they’ve literally taken an actual real-life old Irish pub and replaced it with a fit-out that’s designed to look like an actual real-life old Irish pub. They’ve gutted authentic, worn-in fixtures and fittings and replaced them with faux, pre-worn flatpack versions of themselves. It’s simply an act that we can neither abide nor understand. Imagine if The Stags Head or The Long Hall went for a psychedelic vibe in the 1960s, or went all disco ball in the 70s. What a disaster that would have been.

    But what’s done is done, and when we arrived, we had to reluctantly admit that the new owner’s investment was evidently paying off. An ironic version of a Ronan Keating tune was being blasted out by an energetic duo to a willing crowd, which was comprised of a younger demographic than one would have associated with Devitt’s previously. G&T bowls aplenty glistened in the shimmer of Christmas lighting, and the overall atmosphere in the pub sounded akin to that one would hear upon passing a temple bar pub on a Saturday afternoon. This wasn’t exactly to our taste.

    Determined not to be the grumpy aul bastards in the corner, we decided to focus on the positives. First of all, the pint – well poured and very well priced given the location, we couldn’t fault Devitt’s one iota here and can only urge them to keep up the good work in this regard. Secondly, we had to commend the inclusion of the pub’s GAA heritage within the décor, in particular the maintenance of the beloved porcelain GAA player figurines that any former patrons of Devitt’s will likely remember with much fondness.

    In our departure from the pub, we couldn’t help but ponder the future of the humble family-run Dublin boozer. With the way that economics seem to work in Ireland, the sad likelihood is that more and more cherished family-run pubs will fall afoul of wealthy groups and chains. We’d like to take this opportunity to issue a warning to these buyers. Pubs are our culture! Sterilising and homogenising them, depending on the flavour of the moment, for the purpose of profit, will only ultimately run them into the ground. Then they will render no use – economically or culturally. Look at the most popular of the pubs in Dublin. All of them are dozens or even decades old, with only minor aesthetic changes throughout the years.

    So if you do buy an ageing pub, hold off on that big refurbishment; a return on investment is only a century or two away.

  • The Swan: Aungier St.

    The Swan: Aungier St.

    It was one of them poxy November evenings where the depression onset from daylight savings’ early darkness had begun to set in. The rain was pissing out of the heavens, and the train was rammed. A pint was in order. As I drew closer to town, I fumbled amongst the crush to retrieve my phone and made a call to Pintman №2, inquiring after the progress he himself was making towards town. “Still in poxy work!” says he. “Bollix to that,” says I.” Grab a spot somewhere and I’ll follow ya in sure,” says he. “Grand,” says I.

    The Swan: Aungier St.

    So after disembarking, I wander up Westland Row and head toward the Grafton St. area. A quick bit of sustenance and I’m on the lookout for a pub only to make the unfortunate realisation that everywhere is jammed with the only thing worse than the Christmas party crowd: The early Christmas party crowd. All of them, carefully gowned in their illuminated woolly jumpers and fluffy red hats.

    In the midst of my frantic dash around the South City Centre trying to find any boozer with a spare spot and a lingering degree of cosiness, I find myself pushing ever so further out of the city. And then, as I wander around by the back of the College of Surgeons, it comes to me. The Swan! Of course! Up to the swan I hastily traipse to find the place reasonably populated and with enough spare seats to lighten my mood. No sooner have I placed my sopping coat on a high stool do I have a good pint of plain in my hand and all is okay once again.

    The Swan, as it turned out, was the best possible pub to arrive into from a rainy November night. Another Victorian gem with all the furniture and fixings one should expect from a Victorian spot. A marble bar runs the length and is nicely complemented by the mosaic tiling on the floor. Another essential visit for seekers of authentic historic Dublin Pubs.

    Content again, I make another phone call to Pintman №2, who is less than impressed, having found himself on a stationary train. “Why is it stuck?” says I. “There’s a swan on the tracks at Landsdowne,” says he. “Jaysis,” says I. “Where did ye settle in the end?” says he. “The Swan,” says I. “Fuck off,” says he.